Some critics visit restaurants twice before writing their review. I see valour in this, but at the same time feel it’s expensive folly to dispense second chances when the paying public won’t. “The waitress coughed on my Paris-Brest and my omelette was hairy, but dash it – let’s go back,” no customer said, ever.
I’m reminded of this as I enter Wulf & Lamb, a posh vegan cafe-restaurant in the heart of zillion-pound real-estate Chelsea. Most of my gut feeling about any new opening is formed within the first 10 minutes. When my lunch guest arrives, there’s a look in my eyes, a “distant light” that Celine Dion would know indicates “a storm tonight”. Because that’s what happens when a place charges £15 for a veggie burger or £8 for a slice of vegan cheesecake, in an upstairs restaurant that doesn’t do table service. It also lets you walk up there with no clue, no signage, only to be snottily pointed back downstairs, where a glum-faced waiter is begrudgingly creaming money off diners hand over fist.
Source : theguardian
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