Saturday, 3 March 2018

The Greyhound Café, London: ‘There are things here I want to come back for’ – restaurant review

You probably think this restaurant reviewing lark is all truffles, Krug and duck fat, liberally smeared in crevices, as directed. And obviously there is a fair bit of that. We are consenting adults. But sometimes you have to fight for your lunch. One new restaurant phones to cancel my pseudonymous booking because, hilariously, they’ve forgotten it’s press night and they won’t be serving “ordinary” customers. OK. I won’t come then. We call another that I’ve finished writing about, to arrange photography. They tell us they’ve closed for refurbishment and will be reopening soon with a completely different menu. It’s a bullet dodged; I had to wash the blood off my hands after writing that review. No matter. I’ll get back to both of them eventually.

Time for an emergency review, then, with the fear that it will be like an emergency appendectomy only with less blood loss and more glassware. Happily, I land in the Greyhound Café, the first British outpost of a well-known Bangkok group, which has just opened on a hard-edged corner site north of London’s Oxford Street. Two thoughts occur to me, very quickly.


Source : theguardian

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